Training a service dog

[Symphony]

Would anyone know a tip or trick of how to train a dog to not whine around people and dogs?...

I think an hour is way too long. You need to break it up with play sessions and toys.

If you're using the "nic" feature (M button) or "tap" (V button but may have to use the computer to set vibration to tapping) to interrupt him when he whines, praise and treat him when he stops. Make it a very encouraging experience. Use a clicker to mark the second he stops whining and treat and praise him. Eventually pair that "click" moment with a verbal cue to stop whining. Move on to not using the remote and rely only on voice commands and click when he stops. Switch between methods if he's not quite ready for verbal cue only. Even use a kissy noise or call his name to make the whining stop and click at that moment.

I hope it goes without saying, always treat immediately after any click- even accidental ones :)

 

[lostforgottensoul]

Use a clicker to mark the second he stops whining and treat and praise him.

He rarely takes treats outside. Most especially in "exciting" areas. I will click and offer a treat but he won't take it so I was afraid of "uncharging" the clicker.

Would clicking with just praise work if he refuses treats?

I think an hour is way too long. You need to break it up with play sessions and toys.

I usually don't train past 30 mins at a time and usually less but my thought process was, if we are just sitting there for an hour, eventually he will get bored or desensitized? Less exciting and he would calm down? But then again, is that training or just plain bordem?

I can stay and/or walk around less time. Wasn't going to go in (though I can). Was just going to sit outside in the front with him to help him settle down around walking people.

 

[lostforgottensoul]

To add @Symphony, I thought sitting there for an hour with him would become no big deal eventually. Less exciting. But I can do that in several trips there i suppose.

 

[Symphony]

so I was afraid of "uncharging" the clicker.

Nah, always offer a treat. It won't "uncharge" the clicker. The only way to do that is to click and offer nothing. And, yes, click and praise can work with some dogs. I would up the value of your food rewards. Frozen raw meat, for example. Fried bacon. Even forbidden foods like cake frosting (in moderation). Whatever it takes to reinforce.

Also, be aware that a refusal to take treats means your dog is "over threshold" for arousal or fear. Make the distracting stimulus LESS so that the reward is GREATER.

This means, increase distance, decrease duration, etc. Read your dog and take their lead by making it easier for them to do the right thing. (My brain subscribes to the BAT method for just about everything now. Free videos in YouTube. It's geared towards treating aggressive dogs but the concepts you learn apply to everythinggggg you need in dog training.)

then again, is that training or just plain bordem?

Boredom. You would be overloading your dog and he'd just shut down. That's not training. That's basically doggy dissociation. (Or, the inverse of hyperactivity could take place. Neither are what you want.)

Short successful training trips make for a successful service dog. Get the work done first and increase duration later.

 

[lostforgottensoul]

Also, be aware that a refusal to take treats means your dog is "over threshold" for arousal or fear.

He took treats when we were sitting in front of Walgreens today. I had forgotten the turkey I bought. So does that mean his abilty to tune out the distraction and tune back into me is getting better. Or more, less stressed then before?

He also took treats outside just now when he usually refuses treats outside.

So, the way I am understanding that is he is less arroused (though still arroused) by people then he was last time?

 

[Symphony]

He took treats when we were sitting in front of Walgreens today. I had forgotten the turkey...

I wouldn't count on spontaneous improvement. You were just lucky that you had the appropriate level of currency for the occasion. In the future, either bring high value rewards or be willing to buy some Slim Jims from the store if you have to. The reward must be greater than the stimulus you are working against.

In time, you'll find that your dog will place more value on you yourself. The only person that feeds him, loves him, makes him feel safe and comfortable. Eventually, after a long while, you won't be needing more than praise as a reward for some things. But, for now, be willing AND ready to pay the piper. :)

 

[lostforgottensoul]

We are doing amazing!

I started Chopper on a prong collar (and use it correctly, VERY IMPORTANT) and he has amazing focus on me, moves perfectly with me, and stops on a dime.

He is not reactive at all that I have seen so far so I am working under threashold which is good.

He also is very quickly heeling on command and staying in heel (allowing me to walk away), heel back on command, down/staying, again heel back on command and learning to walk backwards in heel. We have yet to learn to piviot his backend only but that's next.

We are now getting to public access. I have exhausted my neighborhood, all while not reactive and focusing on me. So I think this weekend we may head to Lowes or maybe just Walgreens parking lot. Unsure yet but wanted to give an update.

We are doing amazing.

Oh, the tasks he now knows:

• Alert on command
• Alerting on 5 anxiety behaviors seperatly
• Block
• Cover
• Lap (DPT)
• Comfort (head on lap)

He also knows "touch" which is touching my hand or whatever I am pointing at and does it well and he is also finding the easiest way to get to what I want him to touch (so is really using his mind there).

He knows "take" (taking something out of my hand) and we are working on "hold" (taking something and holding it in his mouth as opposed to dropping it). Steps to learning to pick things up for me.

We are starting on foward and backward moving which are first steps to teaching him to pull me up.

We are also working on "steady" which is allowing me to push down on him to get up or counter balance.

He also knows "tuck" both sides (crawling between my legs and the seat when sitting) and keeps the command and allows me to touch him and tighten my legs around him.

We have a long way to go but damn, in just a few weeks we went to very reactive to not reactive at all and very calm. Amazing job he is doing!

 

[Symphony]

Also trying to figure out how to convey "hold" to my dog. For now, we're working on "trash" which involves aiming where my dog drops an item. So, that's something.

 

[lostforgottensoul]

Also trying to figure out how to convey "hold" to my dog.

What I am doing is holding my hand where he can't drop it for a second, marking it, then longer, marking it, and he is getting that holding it in his mouth is what I want. He likes to pick something up and dropping it, and taking it from me, walking backwards and dropping it, so that is helping.

Chopper is amazing when it comes to tasks! He is just super smart. He just needs more exposure and to learn to be calm out on the public. I hope this works out cause he is so amazing as a service dog!

 

[lostforgottensoul]

Someone Linked this on a youtube vid and I thought I'd share this. It's 101+ things to socialize a Service Dog to.

Link Removed